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  • June Ann

    Badge-a-Minit Punch Cutter

    June Ann posted on: 9:18 pm on July 19, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 8 View Thread | Quick Reply

    About a week ago I came across this site and the forum.One of the posts I read suggested getting a punch to punch out the circles for buttons. I ordered the less expensive punch. I got the 2.25 in and the circles are too small. I currently use BAM products. What size punch if available, should I have gotten? 2 things to keep in mind. I have a visual impairment and I experienced a stroke last year that effected my left hand. Using the Cut-a Circle is difficult and it’s so old. I think the blade is shot. Anyone know what to get and where? I got this punch from EK Success.

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    • Joyce

      Joyce 11:30 pm on July 19, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      I have one of the more expensive ones.

      The punches you can buy at a craft store are for smaller buttons, I have never seen one that could punch a large 2.25 button, and if they did make one it probably be very difficult to use.

      This is the Cadillac punch http://stores.americanbuttonmachines.com/Detail.bok?no=290 (the one inch size is on my dream list! )

      I use this for my 2.25 size buttons, the advantage is you can adjust the size but with a visual impairment it may be difficult to center your design. http://stores.americanbuttonmachines.com/Categories.bok?category=Cutter+%2F+Circle The cutter uses a metal wheel and easily cuts circles by pressing down and turning the handle. Unless your left hand is very very weak you should have no problem. Years ago I had a BAM machine and remember the cutter wanting to “walk” while cutting out the circles, I don’t know if this is still a problem but this cutter is fairly heavy and holds fast to the paper.

      • June Ann

        June Ann 3:16 pm on July 20, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        Well this is a bit disappointing. Centering is an issue. Yes the cut a circle does walk. I don’t make and sell enough buttons to offset the cost of a graphic punvh. Yet I really enjoy designing and making buttons. I don’t know that the rotary cutter would work any better for me. I did purchas a graphic punch from someone on e-bay. It was the wrong one. It’s just a standard 2.25 but it does cut the correct size to make the button. I thought I ordered the one for the BAM size. The cutter is slanted, so that even if I do get the design centered, the paper can easily move. And there is no hole behind the paper to help center the artwork.

        Actually the 2.25 punch I just got is fairly easy, it’s just not big enough. The one for BAM is flat anf has the hole. Is there an inventor out there that can help me for under $100.00?? I just need something I can cut with using guiflines I created that used to work with the cut a circle Something a little more goof proof would help. I even set up markers to help with centering which helps some.

        • buttonman

          buttonman 12:11 pm on July 26, 2010 Permalink | Reply

          I feel for you.
          the cut-a-circles are designed to drive you insane.

    • ABM

      ABM 9:37 am on July 20, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Most circle cutters you purchase from craft stores do not cut the correct sized circle required for making buttons. It is very important to cut the correct sized paper circle or you could make defective buttons.  You have to cut a larger size circle than a finished button because the paper wraps around the back of the button and then is crimped between the upper and lower shells. If you do not use the correct sized circle cutter, the paper could be too large and not wrap around the button properly or it could be too small and the paper could pull out of the button or worse case, the button falls apart.  Thus wasting all your time, paper and ink.

      For example your BAM Cut-a-Circle cuts a 2.750″ circle to make what BAM’ calls their 2.25″ button, which is actually a 2 3/8″ button. (Confusing, I know)

      However we do have a solid steel 2.25″ BAM sized punch cutter which is much easier to use vs the plastic Cut-a-Circle  you have. Click the link above and see if it looks like it would work better for you. You can also click the following video link to see our punch cutter in action.

      Please let us know if you need anymore assistance.

      Happy Button Making!

      ABM

      • June Ann

        June Ann 3:31 pm on July 20, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        Yours is diferent. It is flat where the circle is and has the hole. I thought it was the wrong one but since it cuts the right size circle I guess not. There is one listed like yours but it doesn’t say anything about a BAM size button although it says in the details that it cuts a 2.6 something size button.

        • June Ann

          June Ann 3:33 pm on July 20, 2010 Permalink | Reply

          So if I’d put out the money, maybe the one with the hole on the underaide would make centering more goof proof.

          • Jean W

            Jean W 11:09 pm on July 20, 2010 Permalink | Reply

            Hi June Ann,

            What every size of punch you get, you mainly need to be sure it is for the BAM size. If you are going to find one on eBay or something like that, be sure to email the person to verify it is the proper size. If you keep getting the wrong size, you will be spending more $$ than you ever meant to do. Good luck in your search.

          • Jean W

            Jean W 8:56 am on July 21, 2010 Permalink | Reply

            I’m not sure if the hole would be more goof proof. You may want to find a tiny lite to place under the punch, that may help you line the button up. I have a circle on my template that helpes me line it up. You could do that also. The outline circle could be darker, because it will no show up when you put the button together. Hope this is helpful.

  • Joyce

    Disney World Pinback Buttons

    Joyce posted on: 5:28 pm on July 1, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 3 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: box, Disney, disney world, girl, wonderful days

    Just back from 9 wonderful days at Disney World. Guess what is making an appearance in the gift stores, yep pin back buttons! I asked the girl if they were selling well and she told me yes even though they just put them out a couple of days ago. They displayed them assorted in a box on the counter, most were in the 3/4″ to 1 1/2″ sizes.

    I know we can’t use Disney images but wanted you guys to know what I saw and found it interesting that after so many years they are bringing buttons back. P.S. they are made in China and “rattle” so ours made on ABM machines are way superior!

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    • Jean W

      Jean W 10:40 pm on July 1, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      WOW…That is very interesting. Did they mention which size sold better? I currently have the 3/4″ and really want to get the 1.5″ when sales warrant the purchase. ;)
      I if you concentrate Disney and told him about your superior quality buttons and maybe quoted a price, maybe they would be interested in going through a local company?? Just a thought. ;)

      • Joyce

        Joyce 11:10 pm on July 1, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        Hi Jean,  The clerk did not mention which sizes were selling better and I did not think to ask. The 3/4″ buttons were of a all over design, almost like what you may find on scrapbook type paper, (Mickey solid color heads etc.) the larger ones had actual characters Toy Story, Cars and of course the Princesses. I purchased a packaged set of 10 Vinylmation buttons for $5.00 but like I said they are NOT the same quality.

  • Guppie

    Tabletop Magnet Display

    Guppie posted on: 5:21 pm on June 21, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 3 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: , display, idea, magnet, tabletop

    Can anyone suggest a website or any ideas for a tabletop magnet display that isn’t overly expensive? Right now I’m using a magnetic wipey board but it doesn’t look very nice.

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    • Joyce

      Joyce 11:02 pm on June 21, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Read this on Martha Stewart’s site once, thought it was clever.
      Usea pre-stretched artist’s canvas. Paint it in any color you wish, when dry turn it over and coat a piece of cut to fit sheet metal with spray adhesive, attaching it to the backside of the canvas. Place a same size foam board on top and attach with mirror clips. You can glue ribbon around the edge for a finished look.
      I was planning on giving it try later this summer for the upcoming Holiday craft fairs.
       

    • Jean W

      Jean W 12:33 pm on June 22, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      I used an old baking sheet. Just take a magnet with you and be sure your getting one that will work. You can cover the sheet with tack paper or paint it. I made my own easel on the back to make it stand up. You can also use those big square hot plates. I have not seen them in the stores, but maybe you can find them in a 2nd hand store?
      Let us know what you end up doing. :)

    • nyanko chan

      nyanko chan 9:46 pm on June 26, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      If you are not inclined to DIY, I recommend Etsy (Etsy.com). There are many handmade magnet boards (some with matching magnets) available there, and they are so much better than what’s available commercially in design-wise, quality-wise and craftsmanship-wise.

      Prices range from bottom low to sky high.
      Styles range through girly girly, minimalist, functional, industrial and anything in between.
      Finishes range through bare, painted over, fabric covered, and decal covered, etc.

      If you don’t find what you dream of, you can even commission someone to make your dream magnet board.

  • mristau

    Best paper to use for making buttons

    mristau posted on: 7:30 pm on June 13, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 3 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: archival quality, best brand paper and weight for pigmented inkjet pinback button prints, best practices, , welcome recommendations

    I’d welcome recommendations on paper weight and brand for pigmented inkjet printing. If it makes a difference, its for 1″ buttons using a Model 100. Also wondering if seasoned collectors look for certain “best practices” in the buttons they purchase . . . beyond imaging and archival quality of ink, i can’t imagine. Thanks!

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    • buttonman

      buttonman 12:50 am on June 14, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Quality mostly. I have seen people look the button over really well. I guess they are trying to see if it’s made well and will last them or it looks like a hobby button and might last a month before it falls apart.

    • ABM

      ABM 3:44 pm on June 14, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Here are a couple of links we have regarding what type of paper to use for making buttons  and archival quality inks. We suggest a 24lb bond paper so it is not too thin that you can see through it and in brightness over 100 so it does not contain a yellow color cast. As far a manufacturers, we like Hammermill as they make a really good quality paper.  Anyone else have some favorites?

    • Jean W

      Jean W 3:33 pm on June 17, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      I currently only make 2.25″ size buttons. I want to go larger, have not thought about smaller for the people I market to.
      I use a color laser printer and print on regular 20 lb copy paper. At least 96 or brighter, if I can get it at a reasonable cost. I’ve never h ad a complaint about the quality. So…I’m good. :)

  • chasl

    chasl posted on: 7:00 pm on June 7, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 2 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: , , , Used button design cd., volume 1

    Does anyone have a used Dr. Dons button cd for sale? I’m looking for button design volume 1.

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    • buttonman

      buttonman 11:07 am on June 8, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      I have the business logo cdrom.

    • Jean W

      Jean W 12:42 pm on June 8, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Have you thought about making your own designs? You have to be careful where you get your artwork, but there are a lot of sites that sell artwork for commercial use. You can download for free at Outlaws design. Read the terms, but usage of their designs are free for commercial use. Look at PSP Tube Index. Some of the artwork is a bit risque, but there are a lot of cute designs as well. You can also look at Designerz Cafe and check out her graphics, super cute and reasonably priced. ;)

  • themak3r

    Best paper to use for making buttons

    themak3r posted on: 9:34 pm on May 29, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 5 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: inkjet printer, paper, , problem, TIA

    Best paper to use

    I have a normal inkjet printer and do small jobs for local areas. My problem is the buttons fade. I am curious as to what paper I should use and do I need to upgrade to a better printer? TIA

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    • buttonman

      buttonman 7:05 pm on May 30, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      How long do they take to fade? I use a Canon Ipixma 1800 and never saw this. and I just use the stock ink from canon. and office depot 94 brightness paper. I don’t know if my mylars are tinted or not thou.

    • Jean W

      Jean W 7:39 pm on May 30, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      I have a Minolta color laser printer and have never had a fading problem either. As I understand it, all inkjet and laser printers ink will fade if subject to the sun for any length of time. I’ve made window stickers with my laser and they last a long time. There is a spray that is supposed to help with fading, but that sounds like a pain to have to do. Can you call Canon or email them and see what they say??

    • nyanko chan

      nyanko chan 6:55 am on May 31, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      <!– /* Font Definitions */ @font-face {font-family:SimSun; panose-1:2 1 6 0 3 1 1 1 1 1; mso-font-alt:宋体; mso-font-charset:134; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:3 135135232 16 0 262145 0;} @font-face {font-family:”\@SimSun”; panose-1:2 1 6 0 3 1 1 1 1 1; mso-font-charset:134; mso-generic-font-family:auto; mso-font-pitch:variable; mso-font-signature:3 135135232 16 0 262145 0;} /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:”"; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:”Times New Roman”; mso-fareast-font-family:SimSun;} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} –>

      /* Style Definitions */
      table.MsoNormalTable
      {mso-style-name:”Table Normal”;
      mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0;
      mso-tstyle-colband-size:0;
      mso-style-noshow:yes;
      mso-style-parent:”";
      mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
      mso-para-margin:0in;
      mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt;
      mso-pagination:widow-orphan;
      font-size:10.0pt;
      font-family:”Times New Roman”;
      mso-fareast-font-family:”Times New Roman”;}

      Are you using OME inks for your printer or Remanufactured inks? If you are not using OME, I would probably switch inks first.
       
      As for the papers, instead of bargain copy papers, purchase papers specially made for ink jet printings (slightly expensive than copy papers). Plus get papers as bright as you could get (higher the #, brighter the paper is, and it really makes image/design pops).
       
      I started making buttons 4 years ago with a decent HP printer, HP inks with ink jet printing papers, and a few that I still have still show bright vivid colors (with low to mid UV exposure).

      • nyanko chan

        nyanko chan 6:58 am on May 31, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        oops… sorry for the mess…

    • ABM

      ABM 5:02 pm on June 6, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Here is a link to our Button Blog that describes how to make a waterproof button and why colors on buttons may fade. You may want to read option #2 about Epson printers.

  • Alan

    Photoshop Button Making Templates

    Alan posted on: 7:33 pm on May 16, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 4 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: amount, orange, , Photoshop Newbie has to make a button!,

    Boy, I just got photoshop elements and downloaded the button template. So far I have moved my image to the same page as the template. My problems seem manyfold: 1st,I need to adjust the size of my image a small amount to fit the template, how? 2nd, when I move the image over the orange template, the orange template is still there, how do I make the template clear like in the tutorial? When I get these figured out I will probably have more questions.

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    • Jean W

      Jean W 10:33 pm on May 18, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Alan, You are not being ignored. I’ve been waiting to see what the answer is as well. I don’t use Photoshop so I could no even give you a clue.
      Sorry.

    • ABM

      ABM 1:07 pm on May 19, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Alan – Unfortunately I’m not sure we can be much help for you. We published the basics of how to design a button on our blog to assist customers with button making but unfortunately we are not able to provide further software support as this is not our area of expertise. The templates we provided are for our customers convenience but our true talents lie in button machines, not software. However, I can tell you that there are hundreds of books, training videos and online tutorials that teach how to use Photoshop. Photoshop is a full scale professional graphics design program and as such can be a full time job to learn when you are getting started. Hopefully someone else reading the forum could give you some advice as well. Good luck and let us know how you do.

    • ABM

      ABM 4:43 pm on May 27, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Just got an email update from Alan and we wanted to share his success with everyone on the Forum.

      This is Alan.
      I got my button project designed using Photoshop Elements. Yea!  I had to invest time and study to figure it out.  I became familiar with ‘layers”, resizing and the “magic eraser”.  Thanks for the template I used and for the wish of “good luck”.  All is good now!

      That is great news Alan! It takes a little time to learn any new software package and it sounds like you are doing a great job with Photoshop!

      Happy Button Making!

  • cramos

    Crimp Die Adapter and Medallion Buttons

    cramos posted on: 2:36 pm on May 10, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 3 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: Crimp, crimp die adapter, plastic backs, ,

    Plastic Backs and the Round Crimp Die Adapter. I received a free round crimp die adapter, but I do not know about its use. Is it just for flattening the shell. Then, about the plastic backs, do they just get glued to the back of the buttons. Thanks

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    • ABM

      ABM 7:06 pm on May 10, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      The crimp die adapter is only used to make plastic backed medallions, some were included free with your button machine. You can also use it to crimp the medallions flat using the 3rd press feature. It is very easy to make a medallion button and complete instructions should have come with your purchase. Check your instructions again and if you need a new copy, simply email us and we will send you a new copy asap.

      • cramos

        cramos 3:27 pm on May 13, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        Hey, it’s great. I just made my first medallion buttons. I saw the paper with the instructions but did not take notice until now.

    • ABM

      ABM 3:38 pm on May 13, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Yea!

      Happy Button Making! (medallion style)

  • beckywollerton

    Wearing a Button Without using a Pin

    beckywollerton posted on: 11:15 pm on May 7, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 10 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: , Pin, pinback, pins,

    Pinback question
    I was wondering if the pins on a pinback could be easily removed before the button was made.
    Thanks!

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    • buttonman

      buttonman 10:30 am on May 8, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      you would just have to open them and slide them out. Why do you want the pins off? I think you can order backs with no pins in them. like a magnetback type. I think ABM sells a few different button types.

    • Jean W

      Jean W 10:46 pm on May 8, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Good question…Why would you want the pin out?

      • beckywollerton

        beckywollerton 11:07 pm on May 8, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        It’s for a kids program, so I don’t want to give them pins. I’d like to take the pin out and loop a string or something through instead, but I didn’t know if it would work. I really like the versabacks, but they are small and expensive and if I’m going to buy a machine, I’d rather get a larger more versitile one.

    • ABM

      ABM 11:21 am on May 10, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      You can easily take out the pins yourself, or order bulk quantities (1,000 or more) without the pin installed.  We have some great solutions for wearing buttons without using a pin. You can use our Bulldog Clips to clip the buttons to clothing or use our  Magnetic Tags or Ceramic Magnets where you would  place a magnet behind a shirt to hold the button up. For your situation the Bulldog Clips would probably work best as they easily attach to the back of  a button using a peel-n-stick adhesive pad then simply clip the finished button onto a shirt or jacket.

      • beckywollerton

        beckywollerton 7:28 pm on May 10, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        Thanks for the info! I can’t use anything with adhesive due to latex/chemical allergies, otherwise, the bulldog clips would be perfect.

        • Jean W

          Jean W 11:35 am on May 11, 2010 Permalink | Reply

          Just curious…Even with the adhesive on the button which is not going against the skin is an allergy concern?

          • beckywollerton

            beckywollerton 8:00 pm on May 11, 2010 Permalink | Reply

            Excellent question. Unfortunatley, it would still a problem. It would contaminate the whole button. Latex allergies are also airborne, similar to peanuts, so you don’t even have to touch it. Adhesives aren’t as bad as say, latex balloons, but still cause problems.

            • Jean W

              Jean W 11:16 pm on May 11, 2010 Permalink

              You can buy those clips at most craft stores. Maybe you can use some other type of adhesive or even hot glue to put them on??

    • ABM

      ABM 12:30 pm on May 11, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Another option is to use a mounted eyelet in the hole where a pin normally goes. Thread a jump ring through the eyelet and and then run a string or a small ribbon through the jump ring so they can wear it around their neck. It is a little more expensive but you can also attach a lanyard to the jump ring.

      • beckywollerton

        beckywollerton 8:01 pm on May 11, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        Thanks, that might be perfect!

  • tjuneau13

    tjuneau13 posted on: 4:51 pm on April 23, 2010 | comments in this discussion: 9 View Thread | Quick Reply
    Tags: bent, collet, , printer paper,

    Trouble crimping
    I just got my machine and I’m so excited to use it! After the first few tries though I am a little discouraged. The collet isn’t crimping so that it is flush with the sides of the button – it is sticking up a bit and can be pulled off. I’ve tried several different sheets of paper – at first I thought the paper was just too thick, but changing paper hasn’t helped. Using my regular printer paper the collet didn’t even get picked up, the mylar was bent around the shell though. I’m hoping someone can tell me what to do to fix this!

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    • buttonman

      buttonman 8:42 pm on April 23, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      You got the machine from here? I hate to say it, but did you read the manual well? button machines have a little learning curve. most have trouble with the final crimp. the first step crimps the art and mylar over the button shell. and the second step crimps the art, mylar and shell over the back of the button. I never used a ABM machine so I can only speak in general on making buttons. on my machine you can feel the button come together when you apply the proper force, but, like I said, I don’t have a ABM machine so yours might be different. my machine has stationary dies, and I turn a lever to do both steps. I would think thou most buttons machines work simulary. but I learned to make buttons by feel. it took me a week to make a good button. my final crimp was loose and when I would throw a finish button into a box they would pop apart most of the time. I just had to learn the proper way to make them.
      a ABM person will be along to help you shortly.

    • tjuneau13

      tjuneau13 9:40 pm on April 23, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Yes – it is an ABM machine, and Yes, I did read the instruction manual that was provided on the CD with the machine.  The issue I am having seems to be with the placement of the collet. In the instructions it states to put the “wide” side facing up.  That isn’t working at all.  On another site – I found a similar looking machine also called the model 100 and the instructions there say to place the collet with the edge or sharper side facing up.    I tired that and it does seem to work better that way and it is not leaving me with a protruding and sharp edge as placing it as instructed here.  I just want to make sure I am doing it the right way (and the instructions aren’t as clear as they could be – the video doesn’t have audio on it and you can’t see the placement in detail).  I understand it may take a few times to get it right – but I also don’t want to risk breaking my new machine by incorrect placement.
      Thanks!

    • Jean W

      Jean W 11:33 pm on April 23, 2010 Permalink | Reply

      Maybe this will help. Here is how I work my machine. I’m not sure of the proper names, so bear with me. :)

      I place the rotating cylenders across from each other (not quite the same as the video), it is just the way I like to do it.

      1) On the left side, place the curved solid metal disk with sharp edge down, then artwork facing up and then the clear mylar on top.
      2) On the right side, place your pin back or what ever back you are using with sharp edge up.
      3) Rotate the left side first and press. This should leave the cylender empty and it’s contents inside the press.
      4) Then rotate the other cylender with the back, under the press and press down. Now you should have a perfect button. :)

      I hope this makes since. ;)

      • tjuneau13

        tjuneau13 11:07 pm on April 24, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        Perfect sense Jean – Thanks.

        My problem was that I was putting the collet in the wrong way. Once I started putting the shard edge up I was making perfect buttons!

        so fun! I love my machine and I’m so excited to use it now.

      • buttonman

        buttonman 11:56 pm on April 24, 2010 Permalink | Reply

        Whats a collet? I was just taught, back, front, art and mylar.
        and a mirrorback has a disc insert to it.

        • Jean W

          Jean W 9:20 am on April 25, 2010 Permalink | Reply

          I believe tjuneau13 is referring to the collet as the front. :) As you can see in my description, I don’t use terms. lol!

        • tjuneau13

          tjuneau13 10:54 am on April 25, 2010 Permalink | Reply

          Actually the collet is the back – that is what it is called in the instructions at least! I didn’t have trouble with the front crimping correctly. Thanks for the help in getting me going here.

          • buttonman

            buttonman 11:11 am on April 25, 2010 Permalink | Reply

            hmm, well, at least now you can make a good button.
            go forth and bring neat buttons unto the masses.
            “oh, collet, you are so… sharp! owie…”

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